It's filtered down the food chain to become this season's dominant aesthetic.
STRUGGLE SYN CODE
This is the concept behind stealth wealth: buying understated products for their quality, beauty and rarity, but not leaving the price tag on (metaphorically speaking) so only those in equally wealthy positions would recognize the monetary value of the item." There is an inner-circle, semi-secret code about stealth-luxe dressing – a sense of "if you know, you know".īut stealth wealth has become more than just a way of life for the extremely privileged few. "Like any language, unless you are fluent in that language, you are likely to miss, misunderstand or at least misinterpret, the nuances. "We demonstrate our allegiance to our social groups and distinguish ourselves from others through our clothing," says Mair. "The idea is that if you're used to having money, you needn't show it off," says Mair.įashion is a powerful communication tool, and one that even the super-rich aren't above using. Weblen described it as the "the act of displaying ostentatious wealth to gain status and reputation in society", and determined that those new to wealth were more likely to indulge in this behaviour. "The term 'conspicuous consumption' was noted by Thorsten Weblen in his book, The Theory of the Leisure Class, in 1899," Dr Carolyn Mair, Fashion Business Consultant and author of the Psychology of Fashion, tells BBC Culture.
It might be grabbing the headlines now, but the concept of stealth wealth is far from new. Instead, Lydia Tár's understated style has turned her into an unlikely fashion icon. "I wanted to do costumes that nobody will look at," costume designer Bina Daigeler told WWD. Cate Blanchett's character in the recent film Tár might be problematic, but her wardrobe is perfect an immaculately put together collection of staple pieces from Margaret Howell, Max Mara, The Row and Dries van Noten. It's not just Succession that's shone a spotlight on stealth-luxe style. "The last person you'd think was a billionaire is the billionaire."
STRUGGLE SYN SERIES
As Colleen Morris-Glennon, costume designer for TV series Industry – another show that allows us to hang out with the fictional super-wealthy – explained to Vogue, the richer someone is, the harder they can be to pick out in the crowd. Her brother Kendall, meanwhile, loves Loro Piana, an Italian label that specialises in low-key pieces made from the finest fabrics, where a coat can cost $25,000 (though you can pick up one of Kendall's beloved cashmere baseball caps for a bargain $495).
Shiv Roy might be able to afford any couture gown she desires, but you'll most likely find her in a plain black polo neck, brown trouser suit or beige shirt (though one made from the finest silk).There might be the odd pinstripe or check – or an occasional flash of colour for a social event – but for the most part this is suppressed, not stand-out, style. The show famously has wealth consultants to advise on every minor detail, and costume designers who carefully construct a wardrobe that truly reflects the 0.01%. Over four seasons, Succession has given us a glimpse – albeit a fictional one – into the lifestyles of the richest people in the US, and shown how billionaires differentiate themselves from a bog-standard multi-millionaire. It's flashy, attention-grabbing and everything the Roys and their ilk are not – because, once your bank balance is in the billions, you don't need to try to impress anyone. This is a bag that wears its price tag on its sleeve. The distinctive checked print is immediately recognisable– even without an accompanying logo. But it's not just the size that's the issue. You could slide it across the floor after a bank job." The ultra-rich, of course, rarely need to carry anything themselves. "Flat shoes for the subway? Her lunch pail? It’s gargantuan. "What’s even in there?" asked Tom mockingly. By carrying a "ludicrously capacious" bag – as Greg's tormenter and co-conspirator, Tom Wambsgan designated it – Bridget immediately marked herself out as an interloper in this exclusive world.
0 kommentar(er)
